Have you booked any trips to Uganda recently? How about other east African destinations? The first six months of 2014 broke records for African arrivals; American travel to Africa was soaring until ebola hit the news in March. The fact is that you know clients who could be Africa-bound in the near future.
Though it might seem as though all media outlets are trying to ensure no American will travel to the African continent, some have attempted to focus on reality. A “True Size of Africa” map, published by The Economist magazine, has been reprinted widely; it shows that the African continent is the same size as the USA, all of Europe, India, China, Japan and the UK combined! Another map depicts the three small countries affected by ebola, barely visible on one corner of western Africa.
Of course, you probably won’t try to talk an adamant client into a trip to eastern Africa, but you can inform yourself so you can speak intelligently to clients who want to travel to an African destination but need reassurance. Refer them to solid facts found on the Internet.
Uganda’s Enchantment
There are many reasons to include Uganda on your clients’ itineraries. Before we explore its treasures, we’ll point out that Uganda is the same distance from Liberia as Alaska is from Mexico (like would you avoid a trip to Alaska because there is illness in Mexico?). More importantly, when ebola erupted in west Africa, Ugandan doctors and health professionals were summoned to help stop the spread of the disease because they were known experts and had done an efficient job of quickly eradicating ebola in 1995.
Uganda’s unique terrain includes gorgeous mountains, pristine lakes, wildlife parks, rainforests, the mighty Nile River, waterfalls, as well as mile after mile of green terraced farmland sprinkled with quaint huts made of thatch or more modern concrete and steel.
Most of your clients will want to head into the mountains to trek with the mountain gorillas; this is Uganda’s number one attraction and it never disappoints. The trek into the Bwindi Impenetrable National Park can occur at one of two access areas: Buhoma and Ruhiija. The trip to Buhoma often includes a visit with a Batwa community (sometimes called “pygmies”), while the Ruhiija route can add a visit to Lake Bunyonyi.
Those of us who sampled different trails tried to determine which was the most challenging; it wasn’t clear because it depends on where the gorillas are hanging out. The fact is that this trek can be arduous, though most reasonably fit people can make it. Get detailed advice from the ground operator for your clients, and make sure they get that advice well in advance of their trip. This will give them time to outfit and get into shape!
So many superlatives have been written about the experience of spending an hour (maximum allowed) with the wild, but habituated, gentle mountain gorillas that it is difficult to avoid a cliche here. Seeing them in the wild is one of those never-to-be-forgotten privileges. The total number left of these mountain gorillas has been quoted as 650 and 880 (counting gorillas must not be an easy task). Uganda claims more than half of those in existence. Rwanda and the Congo have the rest. They have been designated as “Critically Endangered.”
Choices for lodging near the gorilla treks vary from backpacker camps to plush luxury. We were enchanted by the Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge and highly recommend it to your affluent clients. Swiss-born Manger Jan Tanner and his staff welcome you like family. The Cloud’s “huts” feature fireplaces and over-stuffed furniture, the food is delicious and the mountain/volcano views are astonishing.
The road trip from Kampala, or nearby Entebbe, will take nine to eleven hours, depending on weather and stops along the way. Though much of this four-wheel vehicle trip is on a paved two-lane highway, some is on rutted, poorly maintained roads. It’s possible to fly to Kihihi or Kisoro, small towns near Bwindi, to cut time travel time. If your clients choose the road, the gorilla trek will consume a full three-days, two of them in a car. The time on the road is often interesting, however, and can be broken up with an overnight stay.
Gorilla Highlands
Lake Bunyonyi is “the safest lake in Uganda,” meaning no crocodile or hippos call it home and it is free of bilharzia. The lake and its 29 islands along with nearby national parks and towns have been promoted as the “Gorilla Highlands” by Edrisa, a “social enterprise” devoted to developing cultural tourism in the area.
Miha Logar, the project leader, born in Slovenia, exudes a contagious enthusiasm about his team’s approach to tourism. They garner respect for their own culture within the local people and, from that, encourage them to share their traditions with international travellers. Miha’s partner is Byekwaso Blasio, a famous Ugandan nature photographer. They have carefully chosen their team, one who fashions traditional dugout canoes and others who communicate well with foreign guests in their homes and villages. Trekking, canoeing trekking in the authentic canoes, home visits, a restaurant and youth hostel are just a few of this group’s offerings.They also have created an award-winning interactive eBook, Gorilla Highlands, a travel guide available on Apple’s iBookstore. As they develop their grassroots adventures in the highlands, many ground operators are incorporating their activities into their tour packages.
We met Miha, Byekwaso and their merry band one night at the Birdnest at Bunyonyi Resort on the shores of the lake. The Birdnest looks like a European lodge and, in fact, is now owned by Belgians.Its history involves a dark era in Ugandan history. The place was built in 1963 by Frank Kalemera Kalimuzo and his wife Esther Twabuhungu; it started as their home but became a small hotel by popular demand. At independence, the extremely well-educated Kalimuzo rose high in the new Ugandan government. In 1972 his small hotel was invaded and he was murdered by Idi Amin’s forces, who then occupied and vandalized. The property sat vacant for decades.
That’s how Managing Director Paul Pablo Ryckaert found it when he took a wrong turn. He was mesmerized, so got out of the car to explore. He said, “it felt like I had found my home, I was so enamored with this place.” He gathered some Belgian investors and they finally convinced widow Esther to sell the place. They expanded to a 14-room lodge with pool and large terrace overlooking the lake. It is a simple, homey sanctuary that is difficult to leave.
In fact, the Gorilla Highlands is more than just a place to break up a road trip to Bwindi. If your clients have any interest in learning about Ugandan culture or just love enjoying a pristine lake, include this area in their itinerary.
Wildlife Safari
Of course, anyone headed for east Africa will want to experience a wildlife safari, and Uganda offers many wildlife preserves. Queen Elizabeth National Park and Murchison Falls National Park are two of the most popular. Choices for your clients will depend on their interests and by plotting their drive around Uganda. This is a time you will be happy you are working with an excellent ground operator.
The “bad news” is that, from what we could tell on a trip in November, the parks in Uganda cannot compete with the best parks in Botswana or a few other African destinations with well-preserved wildlife. During Uganda’s civil wars, most of its game was decimated. Getting it back to its former glory will take more time, though the Uganda Wildlife Authority is working hard toward that end.
The “good news” is that there is wildlife (in addition to the mountain gorillas) and other sights in Uganda that are unique to this area. In the southern Queen Elizabeth Park, in addition to elephant, lion and other wildlife viewing, clients can track chimpanzees in the Kyanbura Gorge. Uganda can boast a large number of primates in its many rainforests. Other opportunities to track habituated chimpanzees are at Kimbale’s Kanyanchu Primate Walk and in the Budongo Forest Preserve. Spending an hour with habituated chimps doing their thing is another once-in-a-lifetime opportunity that is not easily duplicated.
One reason to visit Murchinson Falls National Park is its falls. The Nile River and its roaring falls are destinations in themselves; add a wildlife safari (lots of giraffe, Ugandan bok, and water buffalo) and several top safari resorts and you will have satisfied clients. Most ground operators include a three-hour Nile cruise that provides close encounters with hippos and crocs as well as lots of water birds. This cruise can conclude with a hike up to the falls, if desired. They claim the falls to be the most powerful waterway in the world. It certainly sounds powerful, as the mighty Nile crashes through a 20-foot gorge.
International fishing events are held on the Nile in this area. Not often marketed, these events would make a stand-out suggestion for a fishing fanatic client.
One nearby true 5-star property is the Chobe Safari Lodge. It is not close to the wildlife in the park, but is worth a stop on the way back down to Kampala. The Lodge offers that “wow factor” that people crave, and it is a luxurious haven after a long trip, with a spa, multiple pools, peaceful view of the Nile and excellent food.
Lake Victoria
Lake Victoria is an attraction in itself. Second largest on the planet and the source of the Nile River, this lake is dotted with islands, some with charming fishing villages remote from 21st century living.
Victoria’s Ngamba Island enchanted us with its inhabitants and purpose. Chimpanzees who were abandoned pets, whose parents were killed or who ended up alone for some other reason live on the island, semi-wild, at the Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary. Chimps are given 98 of the 100-acre island, while caretakers, a vet and many visiting professionals stay on the remaining two. Though not the same as tracking chimpanzees in the wild, a visit to Ngamba can be anything from an afternoon of learning to a full week of volunteering. Accommodation is provided in tents at the water’s edge.
Speke Resort, Munyonyo
Back in Kabala, the Speke Resort provides a welcome sanctuary from a traffic-clogged, frenetic capital city. A world unto itself, sitting on the shores of Lake Victoria, the resort offers 449 rooms with 59 Presidential suites, plus two-bedroom apartments and bungalows. The Speke has room for conferences (such as the 39th ATA Congress) but also provides charm and amusement for its guests. A well-fitted stable has horses for riders of varied skill; a marina charters boats of many sizes; two pools, one Olympic sized, as well as a world-class gym are just some of Speke’s amenities.
Sumant Singh, Front Office Manager, told us that about 40% of their business was weddings; the other 60% was conference and FIT. He related stories of weddings held at the Speke Resort in which the dreams of the bride and groom were realized. For instance, one couple was married on horseback, others on boats. Though Speke does not employ an official wedding planner, he told us that there are several employees who have planned many weddings for people of all nationalities and they can set up just about any kind of a wedding that a couple can imagine with the help of their travel agent. If your clientele includes destination weddings, the Speke Resort would be a gorgeous place to start, followed by a honeymoon on safari! Depending on the size and plans of the wedding, upgraded rooms and other amenities are offered.
Rates at the Speke Resort are lowest on the weekends: $157 for two, full book. All inclusive rates at other times can range from $250 to $300 per couple, depending on the room.
Brussels Airlines
Using its North American gateway of JFK in New York, Brussels Airline is not only the least expensive carrier for many African destinations (at the time this was written) but it is a full-service airline! We know the definition of “full-service” changes by the hour, but on our long flights with Brussels Airlines we were treated to full meals, including wine or beer for dinner or lunch, plus additional snacks. We had a choice of several first-run movies as well as TV programs and other entertainment at our seats. We had plenty of room for our feet, legs and an underseat carry-on. We did not have to pay for checked or carry-on bags. Oh, and the attendants were attentive and smiled!
Having flown a lot most recently within the USA and Mexico, we felt like we were in a time warp. Brussels is thoroughly European in their services on board, yet have kept prices affordable.
Who’s Your Partner?
If you are an African Travel Association member, you have most likely formed personal relationships with African tour companies that you like to partner with. Any travel professional who aspires to plan exciting (and often lucrative) African adventures for clients would do well to join ATA.
There are many reliable, knowledgeable tour operators in Uganda. The first test should be if the business in question belongs to the Association of Uganda Tour Operators. Their membership is vetted. Many of the tour operators in Uganda own safari lodges. This is not a bad thing, but the best won’t insist your clients use their lodge if it doesn’t fit their needs.
We spoke with ATA Uganda Chapter’s VP and owner of Pearl of Africa Tours, Kelly MacTavish, about her life in Uganda. Kelly was raised in Texas and originally came to Uganda as a dentist. She worked side by side with her dad, who was also a dentist. Her stories of dentistry in the bush were fascinating. She eventually married a Ugandan man, had two children and they started a tour company together. Sadly, Kelly lost her husband (and business partner) unexpectedly a few years ago. .
When asked about her approach to planning tours with her North American travel partners, Kelly said she “likes to mix it up, do the unexpected.” She doesn’t have a “set” itinerary, but works with the agent, who hopefully knows the wants and needs of his/her clients well, to personalize a trip. She said, “Even if the client can afford five-star, I like to give them new experiences. If the client is on a budget, mixing it up can help keep costs down.”
Uganda is a place where many different clients and budgets can be accommodated. Most people who want to experience Uganda will use a travel agent or book a set tour with a known company. Travel agents who set up personalized tours through reputable ground operators and then price them competitively for their clients will not only make more money than booking a set tour, but they will win the hearts of clients who return with bragging rights for their unique, unforgettable adventure in Uganda.
Visit Uganda, www.visituganda.com