Marrakech: the word alone conjures up images of hidden alleyways, colorful carpets and the smell of exotic spices wafting through the air. But Morocco is changing and while it still embraces its ancient roots, there’s a new, modern Marrakech emerging and it just might surprise you. Luxury hotels, high-end boutiques and world-class cuisine can all be found in today’s Marrakech.
Tourism is an important part of Morocco’s economy and accounts for 8 percent of their GDP. They received over 10 million visitors last year, most from western Europe. Morocco is the closest “exotic” destination to the US yet North American tourists make up only a small fraction of its total visitors, about 220,000 in 2014. Hotel occupancy is currently only at 53 percent so there are many deals to be had.
The city of Marrakech was founded almost a thousand years ago, and walking through the medina (or old walled city) can feel like stepping back in time. Donkey carts share the narrow laneways with motorbikes—keep to the sides as you walk through!—and much of the city’s population still lives and works in and around the traditional souks, or markets, located within the medina.
There are several entrances to the medina scattered along the walls but the most common way for tourists to enter is through the main square of Jemaa el-Fna. You’ll find yourself surrounded by hawkers and food stands, henna-painters and snake handlers. Keep going forward and head to the alleyways behind them…and be prepared to get lost. The riot of colors and textures as you wander through can be overwhelming; if you see something you really want to buy, just do it (be prepared to haggle) because you might not be able to find your way back.
When it comes to shopping though, don’t discount the new side of town. Within its mid-century and more modern architecture are a wealth of shops and restaurants, plus many of the larger hotels. There are European chain stores as well as smaller independent boutiques, some of which offer higher-end versions of items found in the souks, no haggling required.
When you’re all shopped out there’s still lots to do and see, from the Majorelle Gardens to the new Photography Museum to just strolling the streets and taking it all in. Speaking of streets, most don’t have street signs so have a good map with you. Crossing the streets can be an adventure too—look for groups of local people waiting to cross and follow their lead.
WHERE TO STAY:
You may be met at reception with the ubiquitous glass of hot mint tea upon arrival, but the moment you enter The Pearl Hotel you realize this is not your average Marrakech hotel. Deep purples and a chic, updated Moroccan style greet you in the modern lobby, a style that carries throughout the hotel. The hotel sits just outside the walls of the old city and serves as the perfect gateway into modern Marrakech. The rooftop bar and pool offer an amazing 360’ view of the city. Rooms start at 2500 MAD* with early booking discounts of 10 percent and spa packages available.
Riads, or small bed and breakfast-type guesthouses, are found throughout the old city. You won’t (necessarily!) find five-star amenities but the charm and authenticity of many of the riads create a uniquely Moroccan experience.
One such small riad is Riad Porte Royale. Charming and cozy, this riad is a converted medina “townhouse,” with rooms built around a central courtyard. There are five double rooms and prices range from 60 GBP** to 80 GBP** per room per night or 300 GBP** per night for the exclusive use of the whole Riad. Agent rates are available. For more information contact Philipa at riadporteroyale@gmail.com
At the other end of the riad spectrum is Naoura Barriere, a luxury hotel created from several interconnected riads and buildings within the medina. Here you’ll find all the usual five-star amenities but with a Moroccan flair. There’s even butler service available. Rates start at €160*** and special rates and promotions for agents are available. Contact directly for more information and offers.
WHERE TO EAT:
Like most cities, Marrakech now offers a wide array of cuisines from around the world. But you can’t miss trying Moroccan food, with all its intriguing spices and flavors.
Located within the medina, Terrasse des Epices is a rooftop restaurant featuring many local specialties such as tagines (named for the conical clay pot in which the food is cooked) and Moroccan salads. (Main courses are around $10 USD.) Or for an evening’s outing, there is Fantasia at Chez Ali, an unforgettable, over-the-top dinner and show, with demonstrations of horseback riding, camels, acrobats, and singers and dancers in traditional garb. Think a Moroccan Medieval Times on steroids. (Tickets including transport are available through your hotel or riad.) Prices start around $50 USD.
Marrakech is uniquely situated to allow for outings to both the seaside and the mountains. Essaouirra is a coastal town roughly three hours’ drive away and the region is home to the Argon tree from which the famous Argon oil is made. The foothills of the Atlas Mountains are within an hour or so of the city proper but to really see the mountains and Berber life you really should spend more time. Many tours are available, including mountain biking and Sahara trips, as well as less physically intensive ones.
GETTING THERE:
Royal Air Maroc inaugurated its first Boeing Dreamliner 787 in February 2015 on the New York to Casablanca route, with four more planes due by 2017. It’s the first airline in North Africa to have the increasingly-popular model. It seats 274 and has updated air recycling techniques that reduce the effects of altitude and allow for a clearer head on landing. To celebrate, RAM is offering a special $787 roundtrip nonstop fare from New York to Casablanca. Travel must be booked by March 20 for departures by May 20, 2015.
Morocco Tourism, www.visitmorocco.com
Multiple currencies are used within Marrakech, so try to check the exchange rates before a trip. Morocco has a closed currency so you won’t be able to exchange your home currency for dirhams until you arrive in Morocco nor will you be able to bring out more than 1000 dirhams.
*At time of publication, the Moroccan Dirham was equal to roughly $.10 USD.
**At the time of publication, the British Pound was equal to roughly $1.51 USD.
*** At the time of publication, the Euro was equal to roughly $1.10 USD.